How To Repair Small Holes In Wool Hat

I love my Smartwool microweight t-shirt. And then much and so that I have worn it until it got some holes in it. Its an older, well loved and worn shirt that I think I got my money's worth out of.

Now were this one of my gazillion cotton t-shirts I've collected over the years, I would take thrown it in my wash rag box in my garage. But this is not one of my cotton t-shirts. Its is my favorite technical t-shirt that, quite frankly, cost me some serious cash...for a t-shirt. And while worth every penny (see my review hither). In fairness to the product, I take gotten a fair "lifetime of the production" out of this shirt and don't feel right sending it to Smartwool for a replacement. I was non nigh to throw it away, or recycle it without a fight, and then I decided to fix it.

After Googling "how to repair a smartwool sock" I was introduced to the globe of darning. Now if you're not familiar with darning, here is a dainty commodity that shows how to darn a thick, wool sock. Needless-to-say, doing a thin micro, or even midweight Smartwool base layer slice took some modification to the process, then I decided to postal service a tutorial for those who live for the truly-boring. As a warning, this is something that takes much dexterity, and patience. It's not something I would expect a lot of people to do, but I do know that outdoor gear junkies are some of the almost MacGyver-like folk out at that place. And then, once your system has been detoxed of all caffeine, you're ready to get started.

STEP 1 - Get the right supplies (Figure 1). To practice this correct, I recommend a small embroidery hoop, precipitous scissors, a regular sewing needle, and good quality polyester thread. I chose polyester because its a cheap alternative to wool tread (which is near impossible to notice locally) and the polyester thread doesn't hold water like a cotton wool treaded weave might. Depending on the weight/thickness of the piece you're repairing, determines the thickness of the thread. For the micro weight t-shirt, I used standard spooled thread. For a mid weight piece, I might find a tread/string that'southward a little thicker.

Effigy 1- Note, I used a unmarried-threaded needle technique. Make sure y'all hold the short end of the thread when pulling, otherwise the thread volition come out

Step 2 - After securing your t-shirt in the embroidery hoop (don't over stretch the shirt, but make sure its not as well loose either), commencement by taking some running stitches around the hole in the solid office of the fabric. (A running stitch is simply "in, out, in, out" with the needle). I know information technology may be hard to encounter in the pictures beneath since I'1000 using a tread color that matches the shirt, but if you look closely at the next three pictures, you tin see how I encircled the pigsty with the running stitch.

STEP 3 - Run parallel stitches beyond the hole, nearly a needle or two thickness between the strings. I like to do this along the shorter dimension of the pigsty. Also, make sure that y'all get-go and stop each parallel stitch outside the running stitch you did in step two.

Stride iv - Once you've completed all your parallel rows, now brainstorm to work perpendicular to those rows, weaving in and out of those parallel rows (Effigy ii)... like weaving a paper basket, just on a much, much, smaller calibration (Figure 3).

Figure ii - Make sure to do your best job alternating over-and-under each row, but you don't take to be perfect. You'll do enough weaves to make upwardly for any missed stitches.

Figure 3 - Notice that the rows in this weave blueprint is closer than the outset ready of rows you sewed in Pace 3.

Effigy 4 below shows what the completed weave looks similar

Figure 4 - You can come across the the weave looks more similar a 'net' than a dense t-shirt weave

STEP 5 - Because yous accept a loose, internet-like weave, double and triple dorsum through your pattern (Effigy v) using the cyberspace-like weave to support your work. Once again, your over-and-under pattern does not have to be perfect because you'll do plenty rows to make up for the occasional missed sew together.

Effigy five - For added strength I reworked the weave in both directions, perpendicular to each other. This part likewise goes much faster than Stride ii and Pace iii to a higher place as you are building upward, and reinforcing the weave design. Keep building upwards until you go a thickness consistent with the balance of the base layer.

And Voila! Below is the finished repair. While non perfect, if you pick the correct color, you'll hardly come across it, and for me, I didn't even feel it. Also, if you lot build upwardly the weave enough, its much stronger than the shirt itself. I hope this is articulate, and if you accept any questions, feel free to email me or mail service them and I'll attempt to exist more articulate where I am not. Skillful luck!